Fancy oils and additives ?

[Zico]

My old man used to swear by slick50 after it removed the piston slap in his old Pug 504 family estate, I was also sucked into the fancy marketing spiel for Castrol GTX magnatec for my very 1st car, a Pug 106 Rallye after being told about a visual demonstration of its "magnetic" qualities by my cousin which he witnessed at some motoring event.

Im cynical now and only doubtingly use molycote with every oil change, but maybe an enlightened few on here might have some interesting stories to tell.. Should make for an interesting thread.
Are these products really as effective as their marketing department claims them to be? ho-hum..!

Snake oil or not?.. What do you use and why?

Anyone use these rare earth magnet round oil filter thingies ?

[oily oaf]

While I wouldn't dismiss additives out of hand as some of the better ones do tend to reduce cold start wear which is the main source of engine degradation, my advice would be quite simply to change your oil (synthetic is best) and particularly the filter (a good quality one) at regular intervals, 3000 to 6000 miles depending on mileage and when you start up from cold just allow the engine to idle for about half a minute to enable the oil to coat the moving parts before redlining it down the road. ;) .
Check your hand book, that's the useful little tome that's so full of invaluable advice such as the location of the steering wheel and the gear shifter, and use the oil gradient (No NOT the manufacturer dummy :mad: ) that is recommended for your vehicle.
If however your lump has been round the clock a few times and is knocking like Jodie Marsh in the gentleman's toilets choose a higher viscosity oil such as a 20w/50 for added protection.
Don't overfill the poor bugger or you'll find lots of naughty little leaks occurring so midway between "max" and "min" is perfecto.
Finally a word about filter magnets. These are effective in picking up fine particles of metal that may otherwise evade the filter and I would definitely give these the thumbs up.
In short my friends spend the money you would have otherwise frittered away on additives, on strong liqour, ciggies and loose women/men and your lives will be insurmountably enriched

Many happy oil changes to all my readers :D

[Daniel]

My old man used to swear by slick50 after it removed the piston slap in his old Pug 504 family estate, I was also sucked into the fancy marketing spiel for Castrol GTX magnatec for my very 1st car, a Pug 106 Rallye after being told about a visual demonstration of its "magnetic" qualities by my cousin which he witnessed at some motoring event.

Im cynical now and only doubtingly use molycote with every oil change, but maybe an enlightened few on here might have some interesting stories to tell.. Should make for an interesting thread.
Are these products really as effective as their marketing department claims them to be? ho-hum..!

Snake oil or not?.. What do you use and why?

Anyone use these rare earth magnet round oil filter thingies ?
You had a 504? :D Good stuff :D

[Zico]

You had a 504? :D Good stuff :D

Haha.. knew you'd comment on that.. great car it was too, faultless in 120k total miles, before it was traded for a crappy VW transporter (redneck smiley) :)

Thanks oily, Just like to take good care of my cars.. as I usually keep them untill they become economically unviable to run. I still enjoy my tobbaco, hard liquor and woman too. :D
What additives would you recomend.. is the molycote Im using worth the extra tenner on top of every oilchange?

Oils.. I know the synthetic (esters) type are the best but my research is bringing up some conflicting reports on what Synthetic oils actually consist off with regard to Ester percentages. Your personal opinion?

Cheers..

[Brown, Jon Brow]

when you start up from cold just allow the engine to idle for about half a minute to enable the oil to coat the moving parts before redlining it down the road. ;) .


My owners manual says that you shouldn't do that :s However I'm not so sure that Fiat are experts of reliability ;)

[Drew]

My owners manual says that you shouldn't do that :s However I'm not so sure that Fiat are experts of reliability ;)

Omg you have a brand new Fiat Punto?! :p :

I don't understand why they say that. Most damage to an engine happens when it's cold :s

[Daniel]

My owners manual says that you shouldn't do that :s However I'm not so sure that Fiat are experts of reliability ;)
Firstly. You read the manual!?!?!?! Are you a woman? :eek: :p : Real men don't need manuals! Unless they have "Haynes" on the front"

Secondly. WTF? Don't idle the car? Just pull away! I must admit most mornings I don't let my car idle much but I usually stay below about 2000rpm for about a mile of so and I don't let the turbo spool up because we all know turbo's need nice warm oil running though them! I find that extremely strange that Fiat say that. It's almost as if they want your engine not to last long.

[oily oaf]

Haha.. knew you'd comment on that.. great car it was too, faultless in 120k total miles, before it was traded for a crappy VW transporter (redneck smiley) :)

Thanks oily, Just like to take good care of my cars.. as I usually keep them untill they become economically unviable to run. I still enjoy my tobbaco, hard liquor and woman too. :D
What additives would you recomend.. is the molycote Im using worth the extra tenner on top of every oilchange?

Oils.. I know the synthetic (esters) type are the best but my research is bringing up some conflicting reports on what Synthetic oils actually consist off with regard to Ester percentages. Your personal opinion?

Cheers..

Zico I may be doing the substance a diservice but I think Molycote contains PTFE (Telon to you) which although effective in coating moving parts, cylinder walls etc can also block oilways and may even clog your filter.
Molyslip is probably a better bet as this is a silicone based additive and less cloying.
My advice however would be to dispense with the highly debateable attributes of oil additives (some engineers consider them the Devil's work) and go for a quality synthetic ester like Castrol GTX Magnatec which due to it's molecular structure clings to all your important little bits and provides the cold engine with ready made protection in much the same way as an additive would.
It's pricey at around 25 quid a pop but a sound investment IMHO.

As to the burning question of ester percentages (we've all lost countless hours of valuable kip dwelling on this one eh boys ;) ) I'm afraid I haven't a clue mate. :(
However I will say that Google is your friend :D

Stay safe and stay oily!

[oily oaf]

Firstly. You read the manual!?!?!?! Are you a woman? :eek: :p : Real men don't need manuals! Unless they have "Haynes" on the front"

Secondly. WTF? Don't idle the car? Just pull away! I must admit most mornings I don't let my car idle much but I usually stay below about 2000rpm for about a mile of so and I don't let the turbo spool up because we all know turbo's need nice warm oil running though them! I find that extremely strange that Fiat say that. It's almost as if they want your engine not to last long.

Daniel I don't offer advice on here for either financial gain nor public acclaim so please feel free to dismiss it with a contemptuous wave of your scrupulously oil-free hand and continue to shave a few thou of swarf from your scraper rings and shell bearings with carefree abandon by pulling away with a stone-cold engine.
I expect you know best after all.

[oily oaf]

My owners manual says that you shouldn't do that :s However I'm not so sure that Fiat are experts of reliability ;)

I dunno Brownie, you need to bone up on Fiat lore my son.
Surely you're aware that Fiat unfailingly advise their customers to rev up a cold engine as the resultant tinny rattling from the valve gear and heavy knocking from the crankshaft main journals will completely mask the hideous grinding of the gearbox synchro mesh and the heavy whine from crown wheel and pinion in the diff. ;)

Only kidding mate. They've come a fair way since the 70's :D

[Daniel]

Daniel I don't offer advice on here for either financial gain nor public acclaim so please feel free to dismiss it with a contemptuous wave of your scrupulously oil-free hand and continue to shave a few thou of swarf from your scraper rings and shell bearings with carefree abandon by pulling away with a stone-cold engine.
I expect you know best after all.
You've never been wrong so far so far be it from me to dismiss anything you say ;)

If they've come a long way since the 70's that's a good thing :p My 131 was the most reliable car ever :)

[Brown, Jon Brow]

Firstly. You read the manual!?!?!?! Are you a woman? :eek: :p : Real men don't need manuals! Unless they have "Haynes" on the front"
.


Sorry :uhoh:

I'll go and get a Haynes manual for a car I don't own this afternoon. Maybe it will increase my penis size :dozey:

The reason Fiat gives for not idling the engine is fuel consuption :erm:

[Daniel]

I was only joking Jon :) People say men never read manuals for anything ;) Was just a joke :p

[Brown, Jon Brow]

I was only joking Jon :) People say men never read manuals for anything ;) Was just a joke :p


I know :dozey:

[Daniel]

I know you know :dozey:

:p :

[Daniel]

Daniel I don't offer advice on here for either financial gain nor public acclaim so please feel free to dismiss it with a contemptuous wave of your scrupulously oil-free hand and continue to shave a few thou of swarf from your scraper rings and shell bearings with carefree abandon by pulling away with a stone-cold engine.
I expect you know best after all.
Will definitely be idling my car just that little bit more ;)

Oil free hands? Me!?!?!?! I changed my air filter last night! Even managed to get a bit of grime on my hands you know! :eek: I'll leave the serious stuff like changing inaccessible glow plugs to a proper greasy oaf. Apparently 3 of my glow plugs had been changed recentlyish and the mechanic suspected that one of the glow plugs which Caroline said was no more than a blackened stub was original on a car that has done 94k miles :mark:

Are diesel additives worth using at all? Saw some last night when I was at Halfords looking for a filter. Never even thought of using them before though.

[Caroline]

Will definitely be idling my car just that little bit more ;)

Oil free hands? Me!?!?!?! I changed my air filter last night! Even managed to get a bit of grime on my hands you know! :eek:


Ahem.

Decorative as it surely is, what exactly would you like me to do with the greasy used air filter that you have lovingly placed on the hearth in the lounge and forgotten about?

[Daniel]

Ahem.

Decorative as it surely is, what exactly would you like me to do with the greasy used air filter that you have lovingly placed on the hearth in the lounge and forgotten about?
[disobedient 9 year old]You're a bugger miss![/disobedient 9 year old]

[oily oaf]

Will definitely be idling my car just that little bit more ;)

Oil free hands? Me!?!?!?! I changed my air filter last night! Even managed to get a bit of grime on my hands you know! :eek: I'll leave the serious stuff like changing inaccessible glow plugs to a proper greasy oaf. Apparently 3 of my glow plugs had been changed recentlyish and the mechanic suspected that one of the glow plugs which Caroline said was no more than a blackened stub was original on a car that has done 94k miles :mark:

Are diesel additives worth using at all? Saw some last night when I was at Halfords looking for a filter. Never even thought of using them before though.

The same rule applies to oil burners as to their petrol fuelled cousins.
A good quality diesel engine oil specifically designed for use with a "blown" engine will be more than adequate in your case.
Mobil 1 do a good one although it is fearsomely pricey at around 40 quid for 4 litres, alternately Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel is a bit cheaper if memory serves but will no doubt do the job equally well.
Here's another tip for you to dismiss as the ramblings of a greasy two-bob mug.
Before switching off a turbo charged lump wait for the blower to stop spinning as the oil supply to the turbine will shut off as soon as you cut the power causing excessive wear to this rather expensive and delicate item.
Here endeth the first lesson

PS When I suggest allowing the engine to idle before pulling away I'm talking about 10 to 20 seconds. NEVER start an engine and leave it to idle for minutes at a time.
Here endeth the second lesson.

[luvracin]

PS When I suggest allowing the engine to idle before pulling away I'm talking about 10 to 20 seconds. NEVER start an engine and leave it to idle for minutes at a time.
Here endeth the second lesson.

Aah, ya beat me to it.. I concur, you usually only need to wait long enough to check your mirrors and also double check you have infact opened the garage door :p : Once this is done the engine should be ready to go.

[jim mcglinchey]

PS NEVER start an engine and leave it to idle for minutes at a time.
.



Whhattt? I always do that on cold mornings, are you saying that its bad for the engine?

[oily oaf]

Whhattt? I always do that on cold mornings, are you saying that its bad for the engine?

Not only that Jim but it will make your custard rifle shrivel to microscopic proportions and bring about uncontrollable attacks of diarrohetic retching :(

Seriously, what I meant to say was don't leave the car to idle UNATTENDED while you nip indoors for a glass of Old Bushmills and a mucky movie.
If your temperature sender decides to go AWOL during your debauchery a nicely cooked lump will surely follow. :s mokin:

[Daniel]

Before switching off a turbo charged lump wait for the blower to stop spinning as the oil supply to the turbine will shut off as soon as you cut the power causing excessive wear to this rather expensive and delicate item.
Here endeth the first lesson

I've been considering getting a turbo timer for Caroline's Legacy for that very reason :) If the turbo is really hot I've heard that you can bake the oil solid in the lines and the bearing too which is fun :D

[Hondo]

One thing to consider, the additive companies have to use the term PTFE instead of Teflon because DuPont, owner of the name, doesn't recommend or advocate the use of the stuff in engines. On this side of the pond, quite a few additives are nothing more than colored mineral oil in high tech looking containers.

Better off using a quaility oil and filter and changing both often. I had an 84 Trans Am I drove for 12 years with no engine work being done except in the name of mild performance upgrades. I changed the oil and filter every month because it was easier than trying to keep track of the mileage.

Now I use Mobile 1 in the truck and Harley's own oil blend in the motorcycle. I've heard Castrol makes Harley's oil for them to their specs.

[oily oaf]

I've been considering getting a turbo timer for Caroline's Legacy for that very reason :) If the turbo is really hot I've heard that you can bake the oil solid in the lines and the bearing too which is fun :D

Turbo timer = Sensible investment :up:

[Daniel]

Turbo timer = Sensible investment :up:
So I take it it's simply a matter of buying a wiring harness and turbo timer? :)

[oily oaf]

So I take it it's simply a matter of buying a wiring harness and turbo timer? :)

That's about the size of it mate.
Oh and don't forget your soldering iron. :D

A word to the wise, don't get one that talks to you, you'll smash it with a hammer within a fortnight. :mad:
Did you know that "strictly speaking" they're illegal in the UK and should be switched off for the MOT?
It's an offence to abandon a vehicle with it's engine running in this sceptered isle you see.
I am now awaiting the edict to be passed down from "on high" that it's an offence to start a vehicle and drive off in it.
You think I'm joking?

[leopard]

One thing to consider, the additive companies have to use the term PTFE instead of Teflon because DuPont, owner of the name, doesn't recommend or advocate the use of the stuff in engines. On this side of the pond, quite a few additives are nothing more than colored mineral oil in high tech looking containers.

Better off using a quaility oil and filter and changing both often. I had an 84 Trans Am I drove for 12 years with no engine work being done except in the name of mild performance upgrades. I changed the oil and filter every month because it was easier than trying to keep track of the mileage.

Now I use Mobile 1 in the truck and Harley's own oil blend in the motorcycle. I've heard Castrol makes Harley's oil for them to their specs.

Is this recommending not to use additive into the engine?
I have the same opinion that a quality mineral oil needn't have added additive any longer since it has the substances already in it. Using another brand of additive may have risk its earlier precipitation considering it has different density with the oil itself.

Usually that additive is mixed with the last liter of the oil in order to make it evenly blended with the oil. This would work effective when engine is in optimum temperature but when starting the engine firstly in the morning I doubt that oil-additive is at best mixing and on the other hand new problem may arise from it.

That is in ideal to change the filter oil also when changing the oil. But doing it one after three times oil changed I think still tolerable. I'd prefer using distance of mileage to certain period of changing the oil.

However if you feel easier to do it once a month it is not a mistake at all, it would be better for the engine. I just want to save the cost while the existing oil is in working distance :)

[Hondo]

With the time and money that the oil companies spend on development of their products, I doubt there is anything to be gained by introducing an additive package to a quaility, name brand motor oil. If anything, an aftermarket additive may diminish the performance of the oil if it conflicts with the additive package developed for, and already mixed in to that oil company's product. I don't use additives and never have.

"Bitch" (the Trans Am) was a wonderful car and I didn't mind the expense of monthly oil and filter changes. That car used Valvoline 10w-40 oil and in 12 years of driving and well over 200,000 miles she always brought me home. Never, ever did she break down on the side of the road and leave me stranded.

[leopard]

I was referring to synthetics oil that have already additive substance mixed into the oil, that additive might work for mineral oil as they are mainly originated and manufactured from drilling, although I am not quite sure that they will make the engine evenly lubricated and it may danger to result some crust on the piston and engine block.

Wow 10w-40 I think a kind of low viscosity oil that have better suit for cars produced in the last 1-2 years. Usually new cars require standard of maintenance higher, no wonder to change oil and filter each month although it hasn't yet expired and still usable. Wonderful car!

[Hondo]

I was referring to synthetics oil that have already additive substance mixed into the oil, that additive might work for mineral oil as they are mainly originated and manufactured from drilling, although I am not quite sure that they will make the engine evenly lubricated and it may danger to result some crust on the piston and engine block.

Wow 10w-40 I think a kind of low viscosity oil that have better suit for cars produced in the last 1-2 years. Usually new cars require standard of maintenance higher, no wonder to change oil and filter each month although it hasn't yet expired and still usable. Wonderful car!

It was a slightly modified 305 H.O. v-8. 5.0 liters for y'all. For most of that cars life a round trip to work was 100.5 miles, since I was putting 2000 miles on the car a month just driving to and from work, an oil change a month doesn't seem that extreme.